Camping on the Edge of a Volcano: Two Weeks at Arizona's Cinders OHV Area
- nomadstrekkn
- Jun 15
- 4 min read
There are places that impress you with dramatic scenery, and then there are places that make you feel like you've stepped onto another planet.
The Cinders OHV Area outside Flagstaff was one of those places for us.
We spent two weeks here at the end of March and beginning of April, just before heading to our Arizona ranch for the season. While we'd seen photos beforehand, nothing quite prepared us for what it felt like to arrive and find ourselves surrounded by volcanic cinder cones, black lava rock, and a landscape shaped by an eruption that changed this region forever.
It felt otherworldly from the moment we pulled in.
This wasn't the Arizona most people imagine. There were no towering saguaros, no red rock cliffs, and no sprawling desert valleys. Instead, we found ourselves camped among the remnants of a volcanic event that occurred nearly a thousand years ago, in a landscape that looked more like the surface of another world than northern Arizona.
Our Campsite Among the Cinder Cones
We chose a spot with a great view of Sunset Crater, one of the youngest volcanoes in the continental United States.
The camping area itself was surprisingly accessible. Roads were in good condition, and while the area is popular with off-highway vehicle enthusiasts, we found it to be much quieter than expected.
The entrance area saw the most activity, but where we were camped, things remained peaceful throughout most of our stay. The final weekend brought a few more visitors, but it never became noisy or crowded.
In fact, one of the things we appreciated most was how much space there was.
For RVers wondering about accessibility, we found the area very big-rig friendly. We had no issues with our setup, and there were numerous sites capable of accommodating larger rigs.
Cell service was strong, Starlink worked well, and nearby Flagstaff made resupplying easy when needed.
Living in a Landscape Shaped by Fire
What makes this area so fascinating is that you're not simply camping near a volcano.
You're camping in the aftermath of one.
Around 1085 AD, Sunset Crater erupted, dramatically changing the landscape of northern Arizona. Lava flowed across the region, ash covered the surrounding land, and volcanic cinders were thrown miles across what is now the Cinders OHV Area.
Standing in camp and looking out across the black cinder fields, it's difficult not to imagine what this must have looked like when the eruption occurred.
What appears barren at first glance is actually evidence of one of the most significant geological events in Arizona's history.
The cinder cones that surround the area aren't simply hills. They are reminders of the forces that shaped this landscape and continue to define it today.
Exploring Sunset Crater
Being camped so close to Sunset Crater National Monument made exploration easy.
The monument does an excellent job explaining both the eruption itself and its impact on the surrounding region.
As we walked the trails and viewed the volcano from different angles, we found ourselves looking at our campsite differently. Suddenly the black cinders surrounding us weren't just unusual terrain—they were pieces of the volcano's story.
The landscape that felt so alien upon arrival began to make sense.
What had once seemed harsh became fascinating.
Wupatki: The Human Story
While Sunset Crater tells the geological story, Wupatki National Monument tells the human story.
And for us, it may have been even more impressive.
The ancient pueblos scattered across this landscape are remarkable on their own, but what makes them truly fascinating is understanding how people adapted after the eruption.
Rather than abandoning the region, many communities found ways to thrive. The volcanic ash helped improve growing conditions in some areas by helping the soil retain moisture, creating opportunities that supported larger populations.
Walking through Wupatki, it was impossible not to think about the people who lived here centuries ago.
The structures themselves are impressive, but what stayed with us most was imagining daily life in such a challenging environment.
The blowhole was one of the most surprising features we encountered, and the surrounding views stretched for miles in every direction.
We also enjoyed the Doney Mountain area and the expansive views of the surrounding landscape, including distant snow-covered peaks that contrasted beautifully with the volcanic terrain below.
Campfires, Dark Skies, and Quiet Nights
Evenings were spent much the way we enjoy spending them most.
Campfires.
Cool temperatures.
Wide-open skies.
While our campsite's location next to a cinder cone limited some sunset views, it provided something else: incredible night skies.
The stars here rivaled what we experience at our ranch.
Once darkness settled across the volcanic landscape, the sky seemed to come alive overhead.
Combined with the quiet surroundings and cool spring temperatures, it created the kind of atmosphere that makes it easy to lose track of time.
Practical Information for RVers
If you're considering staying here, a few practical notes:
Big-rig friendly
Roads were in good condition during our visit
Strong cellular service
Excellent Starlink connectivity
Dump station available at Maverik in Flagstaff
Water available at a campground between the Cinders area and Flagstaff
Cooler temperatures due to elevation
Wind can occasionally be a factor
Likely much busier during summer months
As always, conditions can change, so it's worth checking recent reviews before arriving.
Why We'll Return
Some places are memorable because of their beauty.
Others are memorable because of their history.
The Cinders OHV Area manages to be both.
It's rare to camp somewhere that combines fascinating geology, rich cultural history, dark skies, convenient access to town, and enough space to truly feel connected to the landscape.
What we'll remember most isn't any single hike, viewpoint, or attraction.
It's the feeling of being surrounded by a landscape shaped by fire, exploring places where people adapted and thrived centuries ago, and being reminded once again of how much history exists beneath our feet when we slow down long enough to notice it.
We would absolutely stay here again.
For RVers looking for something different from the typical campground experience, the Cinders offers a chance to spend time in one of Arizona's most unique and overlooked landscapes.
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